Berlin and Sylt

Sylt - A bit too busy for my taste, but no doubt a beautiful island.

Sylt – A bit too busy for my taste, but no doubt a beautiful island.

This year’s Woodpecker clan’s family trip is taking us around northern Germany and Scandinavia.

After about 8 weeks of heat wave – Munich slowly becomes a mediterranean climate – we already had our share of swimming and late nights outdoor. So we decided that the risk of bad weather (normally a downturner when doing holiday with small kids) is quite acceptable this year.

The first station (only for Mr.Woodpecker) was Berlin, to meet up for a large european gathering of wonderful people from an international exchange association I joined recently.
Berlin is a good spot for such a gathering, as it vibrates a very international flair these days. And still it is, compared to other „hip“ cities, relatively cheap. Weather was great also, so we enjoyed a great time there.
The only thing that struck me is how much Berlin changed in the last 15-20 years. I considered myself to be quite a Berlin-expert in the late Nineties, but did not often return in the last 10 years.

What a change the city made!

In the Nineties, Berlin was a slightly “run-down” and a bit shabby but very sexy and very special city with a unique frontier atmosphere that only its former isolated location was able to produce. The only cities in the world that also were able to form (a bit) of this special flair were other former communist cities, like Prague or Riga.
In the Nineties Berlin, you immediately knew if you were in the west or former east. In the former east, streets were VERY shabby, pavement full of potholes, lights broken, houses all in gray from the coal fireplaces. But also this areas very VERY sexy, full of great student and subculture live taking place in huge old houses that you could rent for an equivalent of 3 EUR per square meter or less. I had quite a few great parties there, the only mess being to carry up the coal for the ovens 5 stories from the cellar where my hosts stored a whole ton of it for the winter. Stranded Soviet soldiers were selling out their equipment and uniforms to tourists. There was the Loveparade. There were countless of barely legal clubs, parties and all sorts of alternative ideas and living.

In other words: The city gave you a sense of adventure in the Nineties.

All of this is gone.

Berlin now is a modern, bustling and in most parts clean and tidy city, flooded by tourists and WIFI-access everywhere.
It still is fascinating, and it is much more international than back then.
But it also became much more exchangeable with other western capitals.
There is no talking around it, it’s greatest days (for people who seek the special) are over. Fortunately, people who still come there in the search of the special have no idea what it has been BEFORE.
But well, that is the course of history – a very special time is only special when it finally is terminated.

Having said that, Berlin still is very much worth a visit. Go there, see the monuments, party and feel the history. Make your own experience of this unique city in the heart of Europe. Multiply by 10 and you have an idea of it’s past wild days.

The Woodpecker clan then re-united in Hamburg. Apart from Munich my favorite city for living in Germany. I am a sailor and a mountain fan – what the Alps are for Munich, is the sea, the harbour and the river to Hamburg. Great place!

Walkway through the dunes.

Walkway through the dunes.

Later we continued to the Northern Sea, to the island Sylt.
I love the Northern Sea and it’s islands, as they have a special atmosphere due to the climat, the strong tides, their dune-character and the „Wattenmeer“.

I have never been to the island Sylt before though.
Actually it is considered to be a „posh“ destination, very en vogue among “the rich and famous” (or those like to think they belong to this group).
That typically is a downturner to me, as it often means unfriendly or arrogant people focussed on money and a general materialistic atmosphere.
Anyway, we were curious, because the Nature is still considered to be marvelous and there is a lot to do and see.

My judgement so far:
Nature is very nice, but there is indeed way to much people, cars and buildings on the island.
Thus, Nature seems pretty much under pressure and it is not easy to find a spot without many people. Beaches are beautiful of course, the sand is – like on any north sea island – the best in the world, much softer and sweeter than anything I have seen even in the Caribbean or elsewhere. Actually you want to bath right in the warm sand, roll around and never stand up again! (… and that is exactly what the Woodpecker body did each day…including filling our car up with this nice sand…)

People (as expected) are pretty much boring, and lack what I would call “authenticity”. As many people here feels somehow „special“, many carry their noses a bit too high. Not too much room for occasional chat, joke, or beer with strangers. These posh people somehow seem not like to get into contact. Even not among themselves to my observations. Probably chatting with strangers is too un-cool.
Also the pace of life on the island is much higher than it should be. Everybody – while being in this relaxing and beautiful surrounding, still seems a bit stressed or busy. Probably because they always have to watch out who watches them or who is there to watch. Or something like that. A down-turner was a e.g. a place called Wonne-Meyer (I prefer to call it Wonne-Kasper. A Kasper is someone who makes a joke of himself), where posh people pile up for a sun-downer, food is bad and expensive, and it was stressful crowded not in a positive party-way, but in the negative 1000-cool-people want to relax at the same spot.

Anyway, no comparison in relaxation to other German islands, like the Ostfriesische Inseln or (my relaxation favorite) Hiddensee in the Baltic sea.

The captain of our Pirate cruise during the kids' attack on the sister ship...my boys were convinced that he has been a former real pirate, and I tend to agree!

The captain of our Pirate cruise during the kids’ attack on the sister ship…my boys were convinced that he has been a former real pirate, and I tend to agree!

Good thing ist hat Woodpeckers of course picked the camping place for their stay. And all the proms of course make a big circle around the camping place, and so do all the would-like-to-be-poshies. So at least in the daily routine (and even at the beach stretch next to the camping), the atmosphere is much more relaxing than in general.

And there are areas (especially in the North) were Nature ist still magic, and you can have wonderful evening hikes or bike tours. Plus we made a Pirate-Cruise from List. Very much recommended with kids, one of the best value entertainment I have ever seen.

Recommendation: For a week of camping, or maybe in the off-season, ok. For the real experience, go for the smaller and less prominent islands.

Cheers,

Woodpecker

Pics: Click to enlarge.

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One comment on “Berlin and Sylt

  1. […] Berlin and Sylt, the Woodpecker summer tour continued to […]

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